Help! Dollieh Emergency! Volks DD2 has broken waist!

[K2!]

The end I have circled in red on this picture (not my picture) is the part visible through the top of the abdomen, and I can't see how on earth I get the other end of the skeleton - the larger 'pelvic' bone/hip joint out - of the abdomen.

The DD "pelvis" sort of has a "fish hook" shape to it, tapered to go in easily but not come out as easily. Makes you wonder if it was designed that way on purpose...Anyway, I know it comes out (I've got one here), so I would say, "HEAT! HEAT! HEAT!"

Put the butane torch down. Not that much heat.

If KiKi was going to model that part it is probably not as hard as it looks, seeing as she would only have to do half (one part) of the assembly and just make two of them. It has that "widget" look to it, from high school drafting class. I think you would just want to make sure to have extremely accurate measurements of some of the critical sections so the new part plays nice with the others.

[kiki-chan78]

I was thinking of doing to DD2 part, what I'd been thinking of doing to reinforce the obitsu piece. They've got a similar problem with all the stress going to one little pencil thin peg.

<3

-Kiki-chan78.

[TheHighlander]

I was thinking of doing to DD2 part, what I'd been thinking of doing to reinforce the obitsu piece. They've got a similar problem with all the stress going to one little pencil thin peg.

<3

-Kiki-chan78.

Indeed. The thing is, the Volks piece is pencil thin, but also hollow. The Obitsu pieces I've seen and handled have all be solid pieces. The peg that has broken in the Volks is not only hollow, it's molded as two pieces that are then screwed together. So even though it's a main element, it's not a single piece in the first place, nor is it solid, it's no wonder people report breaking these things.

What I'll be doing is micro-drilling two new screw holes on the square top part of the joint, where the break is, so that the central bolt can be removed. Then I'll drill a hole through the center. I'll use some tape to temporarily re-assemble the peg, and drill out the end of it too. . Then remove the tape and use a decent plastic cement to put the peg back together and back onto the square end it broke from. To provide a fitting guide, and a permanent re-enforcement, I'll locate a bolt in the center of the peg, and tighten it up and then fix it in place with some superglue to prevent it rotating and loosening in future. With all of that done, the joint should be perfectly serviceable, and probably several times stronger than before. I'll leave one of the tension rings off the chest joint when re-assembling the doll too, that should prevent the joint becoming too tight and locking.

[Misheru]

Michiko will be bionic!

[K2!]

We needs a handful of these.

[cirquemom]

Is that a gamma ray gun?

[Misheru]

We needs something...

[K2!]

It's the Dollfie Dream 2 Bionic Spine, the cobalt 60 powered version. Cobalt 60 is a source of gamma rays used to treat some forms of cancer. So I guess it is a gamma ray gun.

[TheHighlander]

That cobalt 60 powered bionic spine for a Dollfie Dream looks awfully well done, is that a one off created by some devoted collector, or does someone actually make those or sale? The arm, leg and neck attachment points look really well done.

[K2!]

That cobalt 60 powered bionic spine for a Dollfie Dream looks awfully well done, is that a one off created by some devoted collector, or does someone actually make those or sale? The arm, leg and neck attachment points look really well done.

I don't know how "mass produced" these are but they are for sale (where else?) on Yahoo! Japan Auctions.
https://www.jauce.com/view2.php?seturl= ... k133363120
Kinda pricey at 17000yen. It's almost cheaper to buy a new body, then you have all the new vinyl and limbs as well.
I've got some of the ball joint stuff so I might do some experimenting...